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April 14, 2008, 8:20 pm

Nautica to close women’s division

Nautica has shut its women’s sportswear division.

Traditionally known for its men’s casual clothing with a nautical theme, Nautica introduced a line of women’s sportswear in 2006. But the clothing never gained traction and fell victim to the sluggish sales environment of the department stores in which it was sold.

The withdrawal from the women’s sportswear market underscores larger problems at Nautica, which has been owned by the VF Corporation since 2003. Once considered a powerhouse in men’s clothing, along with Tommy Hilfiger and Polo Ralph Lauren, Nautica has listed badly in recent years as new competitors like Ted Baker and Sean John have taken market share. An attempted revitalization in 2005 fell flat and executives are now working on yet another revival aimed at bringing Nautica closer to its heritage of classic styles with a modern twist.

To bolster its management ranks, Nautica CEO Denise Seegal in September hired Karen Murray, formerly of Liz Claiborne, as president of men’s sportswear. Also newly on board is Creative Director Mirian Lamberth — the first to hold that position since founder David Chu left the company in 2004.

Nautica notified its employees and business partners of its decision to close the women’s division last week. In a statement e-mailed to FORTUNE, VF said the decision would allow the company to “focus our resources on continuing to build our men’s, licensed and direct-to-consumer businesses.” Nautica will continue to sell women’s apparel in select company-operated retail stores, and will still make women’s swimsuits and pajamas.

Nautica has traditionally had a tough time cracking the women’s market. Soon after VF bought the company, it closed its women’s jeans business.

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